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PITTSFIELD - Mark Papas is understandably proud of the fact that his family has owned The Lantern Bar & Grill for 82 years.
"My grandfather, Gus Papas, came from Greece and opened The Lantern in 1926," Papas said. "Initially it was a bar in the Columbus Avenue area. About 75 years ago, it moved to the North Street location, where a full kitchen in the back made complete meals possible. That's how The Lantern survived the Depression years. People would come in with meal tickets, get them punched and get a good meal.
"I came across a few of those tickets when I was looking through some old paperwork. Interesting!" he said.
Papas paused periodically to wait on customers, wave to patrons going by and in general maintain the convivial, welcoming atmosphere of The Lantern. It has a shiny grill area in front these days where patrons can see and smell the famous grilled hamburgers and other grilled specialties being prepared.
The bar can seat about 15; there are also seven booths and a table for about 10. A dividing wall between the booths and the bar offers a degree of privacy that lends coziness to the place. The walls are hung with Diana Kinoy's art prints. Jazz
The Lantern feels old-fashioned in the best sense of the word while offering a menu that encompasses a surprisingly varied range of food choices (including that famous Lantern hamburger, voted the best in the county) and daily lunch and dinner specials. Limited breakfast items are also available.
"After World War II, my father, William, came back from military service," Papas said. "He took over and changed the Lantern to bar service only. ... It was not unusual to have people standing four rows deep in here."
The Lantern was a family affair, Papas said.
"After school, my brother and I would come in and help out. We loaded the coolers with beer. My sisters worked counter when they were older," he said. "The bar was open from 7:30 in the morning 'til 2 a.m. My dad was here most of that time. It finally got hard for him to continue the pace."
In 1964, Papas' father decided to reintroduce the food, coming up with the basic menu served now.
"I've since kicked the menu up with homemade soups, deli and specialty sandwiches, steaks and bigger salads," he said. "People must like it because 85 percent of our sales are from food. We also do a brisk business in takeout."
Papas, besides owning The Lantern for the past 18 years, is also a well-known musician who has played the drums since the age of 7. Before moving back to Pittsfield in 1990, he was a professional musician and music teacher and owned a real estate business, as well.
"I still get calls for music dates, so I'm able to keep my hand in the business. Music does remain my first love, but The Lantern is part of who I am," he said.
When asked what has made The Lantern work so well for so long, Papas recalled an axiom taught to him by Fred Waits, a music teacher from New York: "Approach each day as if it was your last, and bring the same level of energy and creativity to each performance. Never rest on your laurels."
In addition to following those words in the running of his business, Papas said getting, and keeping, good, reliable help is crucial.
"We have a staff who have been here awhile. We can trust and count on them," he said. "It's also important to know your most profitable hours. Our hours are 10 a.m. to 10 p.m."
Restaurant owners also have to know their market, he said.
"Don't sell what you want to sell to create an image for yourself, sell what sells," he said. "And don't expect your friends to keep your business going - they may not even come in at all."
Papas is well aware that patrons' tastes come and go, and he is willing to follow those trends.
"You need to keep things fresh. I've added some new beverage selections that are doing quite well. If they weren't, I'd change them," he said.
The world of a restaurateur can be precarious; North Street places have come and gone. But The Lantern? "We're doing OK. The Lantern supported three generations of my family and sent kids to college."
His biggest slowdown was after 9/11. "I had to let someone go, and I hate to do that. I worked from 8 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. six days a week for a solid year," he said. "Sometimes you have to tighten a notch in your belt and go forward."
Papas responded to the perception problem The Lantern has successfully confronted: "People probably passed this place 100 times or more and thought, 'It's just a bar.' But this place has been run with an iron fist from its beginning. We have zero tolerance for problem customers."
He also said the smoking ban helped the restaurant. Years before the ban, in fact, he had already eliminated smoking in the restaurant during lunch hours.
"It really helped change our focus to the food business, and we have done much better without the smoking," he said. "We've always had a good cross-section of patrons: business people, teachers, trades people, clergy, construction people, retired folks and others."
Papas was quick to acknowledge the positive impact the Third Thursday events have had on the downtown area.
"I can't give Megan Whilden, Pittsfield's director of cultural development, enough praise for all she has done to make things happen," he said. "She's been worth her weight in gold."
Is a fourth generation waiting in the wings? Papas said his son Eliot, a senior at Taconic High School and a talented drummer like himself, will major in business at Champlain College this fall. He also has a daughter, Xan.
And as for the place itself, Papas, who owns the building, had considered expansion, but found that a major overhaul would cost more than he could afford. However, he is considering some layout changes.
"I'd like to change the booths to tables that can be moved to accommodate more or fewer people, and also take the dividing wall down to add more room," he said.
But some are happy with things just the way they are. Overhearing Papas talk about those possible changes, a patron spoke up: "Don't mess with what works! You've got a good thing going here."
